Tent pattern: panels, copies and cutting files

A tent or tarp pattern is a small number of large flat panels: canopy sections, floor, doors, reinforcement patches and guy-out tabs. Most of them are straight-edged shapes that can be drawn from measurements. The ones worth copying from existing gear are the shaped panels, and those are copied the same way as any pattern piece: flatten, photograph, correct.

Updated September 7, 2026 · digitizemypattern

Large cut panels of lightweight fabric spread on a workshop floor with shears and a weight

Which panels are worth copying at all?

Not the rectangles. A floor or a flat tarp is faster to draw from four measurements than to photograph, and the drawing will be more exact. Copy the pieces whose shape carries somebody's decision: catenary edges, curved canopy sections, door panels, and the reinforcement patches whose exact outline is why the seam has not torn.

DRAW

Straight-edged panels

Floors, flat tarps, simple wedges. Four measurements and a CAD sketch beat any copy, and you keep the numbers rather than a scan of a worn piece.

COPY

Shaped panels

Catenary cuts, curved canopy sections and doors. The curve is a decision somebody already made and tested in wind, and it is far easier to copy than to derive.

COPY

Patches and tabs

Small pieces whose exact outline spreads the load. They repeat many times across one build, so a file for each pays for itself immediately.

How do you photograph a panel bigger than the table?

The rule is one frame: the whole panel and the sheet of Letter paper have to be in the picture together, flat and evenly lit. Shooting from further away costs resolution, so a very large panel comes back with a few more points needing correction by hand. That is the honest trade, and it is why big straight-edged panels are better drawn than copied.

Two habits fix most of it. Lay the fabric on a floor of a different colour rather than on a table it hangs off, because a hanging edge curls and the curl becomes a bump in the outline. And shoot straight down over the middle of the panel rather than from the end: a low angle stretches the far end of a long piece, and no correction afterwards puts that back exactly.

What comes back, and in what form?

A closed outline at true size, notches where you cut or drew them, and a grain line written into the file. DXF on the AAMA and ASTM standard for CAD and cutting tables, HPGL PLT for plotters, and a Letter-tiled PDF that prints at true size on ordinary sheets so a panel can be taped together and checked against the gear before any fabric is cut.

CHECK

Print before you cut

Tape the tiled PDF together and lay it on the original panel. Silnylon and Dyneema composite are expensive enough that one printed check is cheaper than one wrong cut.

REPEAT

Same file, same panel

A card template wears at the edges and drifts with every copy. A file cuts the same shape in three years, and a change is one you made deliberately.

SCALE

Hand it to a shop

A cutting table reads the DXF or the PLT directly, with internal lines on the second pen so a marker draws them instead of a knife cutting through the panel.

What is not in the file?

Seam allowance, flat-felled seam take-up, the catenary tension you actually want, and any allowance for fabric stretch under load. The outline is the shape of what lies on the ground, nothing more. On a tent this matters more than on a garment: a panel copied off gear that has stretched for three seasons carries that stretch, and the copy will be a little larger than the tent was when new.

Questions about tents and tarps

Can I copy a tent without cutting it apart?+

For flat panels, yes: pitch it, take the panel off if it unclips, or lay the tent out and photograph the panel that lies flat. Panels that only exist as part of a curved surface have to be templated in film or paper first.

How accurate is it on a two metre panel?+

Accuracy is set by how many pixels cover the panel. A panel that fills the frame comes back close to the paper edge; a panel shot from far enough away to fit needs more correction by hand. For long straight edges, measure and draw instead.

Does it work on silnylon and Dyneema composite?+

It works on anything that lies flat on a background of a different colour. Shiny fabric is the awkward case: even light and no direct reflection, otherwise a hot spot reads as an edge.

What about catenary curves?+

A copied panel carries whatever curve was cut into the original. The tool does not know it is a catenary and will not recalculate it: it returns the outline as it lies.

Can the file drive a CNC cutting table?+

Yes. The DXF is AAMA and ASTM with cut line, notches, grain and internal marks on separate layers, and the PLT is standard HPGL with clean pen-up and pen-down moves.

Is there a size limit?+

The limit is the photograph, not the file. If the whole panel and the paper fit in one frame, flat and evenly lit, it traces. If they do not fit, split the build differently or draw that panel from measurements.

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